04-02-2019, 01:52 PM
bigdmike
We use a pinch off tool and it works great.I really think the lighter you have in your pocket is more dangerous that the refrigeration system that has R290 in it.
Don't ever say propane to the customer. They think the cooler is a bomb from that point on. If a pharmacist ever hears you say that the refrigeration system has propane in it, hold on to your seat the whole store is going to blow up.03-25-2019, 09:14 PM
DeltaT
If you are worried about things that can go boom then follow many of the manufactures instructions & move the unit outside. Then work on it & stay away from the service line as much as you can. This type of new refrigerant is limited in amount by regulation so any major boom should be minor. I'd say if you follow the manufacturers instructions on these units you have very, very little chance of things going wrong.
03-25-2019, 09:04 PM
BBeerme
Here's a couple of tips that may help you out. First, make sure the threads are well oiled for the wing nut to tighten.
Secondly, tighten one side a bit more than the other, then loosen the tighter one, and tighten the other one. The idea being that you are not trying to compress all of the tubing all at once. Personally, I've never had mine leak; always easy to braze, just may take an extra 30 seconds or so.
And yes, the idea with that pinch off tool is that you can pinch off, do a repair, then re-open the tubing.
Originally Posted by johndiefThat is what I have been using. I doesn't seem pinch off tight enough. Maybe something wrong with mine.
I think they are made to make a crimp that can be opened back up. that old style that robinair made I cant find anywhere new.
Has always let a little refrigerant puff out when soldering and there is so much less in these units that a little bit
of loss during soldering may be a problem.03-25-2019, 01:46 PM
johndief
I will get a pair of those and try them. Thanks to everyone for the for the help. Originally Posted by itsicemanI like my vice grips style pinch off for this. Haven't found doing it on a HC unit any different than on a HFC unit.
03-25-2019, 12:29 PM
VanMan812
X2 Originally Posted by itsicemanSee Alsoreseating bullets...?Institute for the Study of WarThe Decades-Long Journey to the Ultimate Messaging App - Marketing ScoopIssue Jul-10-15 - The Week MagazineI like my vice grips style pinch off for this. Haven't found doing it on a HC unit any different than on a HFC unit.
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03-25-2019, 12:27 PM
itsiceman
I like my vice grips style pinch off for this. Haven't found doing it on a HC unit any different than on a HFC unit.
03-25-2019, 11:05 AM
johndief
That is what I have been using. I doesn't seem pinch off tight enough. Maybe something wrong with mine. Originally Posted by BBeermeJust a normal and easily available pinch off tool works fine, I have had a couple for decades, can't even remember how I tweaked this one. Maybe tried it on stainless or something?
Attachment 807852
Not supposed to see those air gaps at either end, but it still pinches hellu good !!
I think they are made to make a crimp that can be opened back up. that old style that robinair made I cant find anywhere new.
Has always let a little refrigerant puff out when soldering and there is so much less in these units that a little bit
of loss during soldering may be a problem.03-24-2019, 09:08 AM
icemeister
The very first time I ever saw a unit with a mechanical stopper type seal on the process tubes was about 7-8 years ago on a True T23F with R404A. It was a brand new unit and the system was flat on startup. The suction process tube stopper was the culprit. Needless to say, I was not impressed. Originally Posted by VanMan812The caps the manufacturers use are of the Lokring variety. I priced one out a couple years ago and it was ridiculously expensive.
http://www.vulkan.com/en-us/lokring/...ng/starter-kit
But really the pinch off tool/braze it shut method is safe and not an issue. Its the quickest cheapest way to go IMO.
When True stated they required any access valves installed for service on their R290 units must be removed and the tube pinched and sealed, it was then I decided if the factory can't make a leak free mechanical seal, I'll be damned if I'm going to shell out a big chunk of cash for a tool to seal off a tube with a method inferior to an old-school brazed stub.
As for the risk of explosion, as BBeerme said, it's impossible if there's no air in the system. Otherwise, I would approach the braze like with R404A or whatever and first check the pinch-off for leakage with bubbles. If there's a leak that's so big it blows out its own bubbles, then you're not going to be able to braze the dang thing anyway. So simply make a good pinch first. A double pinch will usually cure a troublesome leak.
03-24-2019, 07:47 AM
pecmsg
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ken...item1ccd14761f Originally Posted by ChuckI've been looking unsuccessfully for them. Got a link?
03-24-2019, 04:02 AM
Chuck
I've been looking unsuccessfully for them. Got a link? Originally Posted by Juan MaderaOnes with ball ends are the best. Factory style...
03-23-2019, 07:18 PM
Juan Madera
Ones with ball ends are the best. Factory style...
03-23-2019, 02:01 PM
BBeerme
Just a normal and easily available pinch off tool works fine, I have had a couple for decades, can't even remember how I tweaked this one. Maybe tried it on stainless or something?
Attachment 807852
Not supposed to see those air gaps at either end, but it still pinches hellu good !!
03-23-2019, 01:47 PM
Danicus187
Ive pinched and brazed R290 process stubs without incident. We use a pair or rounded pinching vise grips to pinch off stub. Not sure what model they are off the top of my head.
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03-23-2019, 12:14 PM
BBeerme
Just pinch it off and braze it. No big deal. If you are concerned of the propane exploding in the system, that would be physically impossible so long as there is no air or oxygen inside the system.
03-23-2019, 12:04 PM
VanMan812
https://api.ferguson.com/dar-step-se...UCT_ID=2995613
If you look at page 9 it shows that Propress is rated for 125 psi therefore you couldnt use it on the high side of a refrigeration system.
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03-23-2019, 12:04 PM
VTP99
Hey, what's the worst that can happen ? It explodes and life as you now know it extinguishes.
The far worst would be just maimed.03-23-2019, 11:53 AM
pecmsg
ProPress has fitting certified for gas Nat and LP. But as has been stated 1/2 is the smallest.
03-23-2019, 11:43 AM
VanMan812
I wonder if Propress means that their fittings wont break down from the LP, not necessarily rated for LP pressures. I know my LP tank in the back yard sits at around 150psi during summer time (depending on volume and ambient). Thats a fairly high pressure for Propress I think. But after the main regulator on the tank the pressure is much much lower and Propress would be able to handle it just fine. Originally Posted by ammoniadogYou mentioned Propress, which is interesting since they aren't approved for refrigerant, but they are approved for propane (as long as they have yellow o rings in them), so they might work, although I believe the smallest size they make is for 1/2" nominal (5/8" OD) tubing.
So, in order to try it out you would need to increase the size of the stub to 5/8", and then press your 1/2" "ProPressG" cap onto that.
I say give it a try and let us know how it works out.
Anyone know for sure?
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03-23-2019, 11:28 AM
ammoniadog
You mentioned ProPress, which is interesting since they aren't approved for refrigerant, but they are approved for propane (as long as they have yellow o rings in them), so they might work, although I believe the smallest size they make is for 1/2" nominal (5/8" OD) tubing.
So, in order to try it out you would need to increase the size of the stub to 5/8", and then press your 1/2" "ProPressG" cap onto that.
I say give it a try and let us know how it works out.
03-23-2019, 10:55 AM
VanMan812
The caps the manufacturers use are of the Lokring variety. I priced one out a couple years ago and it was ridiculously expensive.
http://www.vulkan.com/en-us/lokring/...ng/starter-kit
But really the pinch off tool/braze it shut method is safe and not an issue. It’s the quickest cheapest way to go IMO.
Originally Posted by johndief
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